Xcp:  Streetnotes: Spring  2005
Streetnotes Spring 2005 xcp

 
 
Claudia Milian
 

All in the Family:
Notes from an Hermanastra Lejana

 
 
 

 
 


oh, please don’t drop me home
because it’s not my home, it’s their
home, and I’m welcome no more
––The Smiths,
“There Is a Light that Never Goes Out”
 

Continental Airlines takes her and will deliver her back.

She left as a Salvadoran child, visited her country as a teenager (with a migratory category of U.S. Resident Alien), and momentarily returned as a naturalized U.S. citizen (with the public parlance classification of hermana lejana). Three travels with contradictory association. Stage one: A presumed unitary subject, Salvadoran. Stage two: The hemispherically redundant, Salvadoran American. Stage three: Certifiable Americanness . . . or going along.

At an altitude of thirty-five thousand feet, Salvadoranness or Americanness is deployed through affinities for country, food, and brotherhood. Seat 28D, an American citizen of Salvadoran background, male, in a Panama hat. Seat 28C: Pudgy Salvadoran citizen, woman, with an overstuffed belly stretching the length of the seatbelt. Somewhere in the front aisles: A twentysomething college student with Salvadoran ties sports the logo of his fraternity.

It has been eighteen years since she last went to San Salvador. Call that national absence abstractly reaching legal age in a diasporic zone of ambiguity. The certainty in that diasporic zone––the realm where legality and illegality are diffused––is economic security furnishing Salvadoran or American dreams. Home ownership dreams. Car dreams. Retirement dreams. Transnational dreams with first world nationalities, as long as dollars pave the way.

Flying over the Gulf of Mexico and through the rough Central American terrain that looks like fortuitously chiseled rocks hammered with hills, mountains, valley ranges, and curves, she attempts to speculate how the life stories will be released post-airplane ride. Who will ask the first question and about what? How do the versions of America converge? Do they matter? Where will the stories be grounded? What is their weight?

She wonders how the questions she raises to herself will be later revised. Edited for no one in particular. A specialist of her own concerns is what she is. Her American dream is her doctorate. Even that is economically worthless. She’s like Antoine, Martin Page’s protagonist in How I Became Stupid, who is informed of the obvious by a Parisian unemployment officer. Antoine’s education is equivalent to professional suicide; he has studied to become unemployed. There is no intellectual or social glamour to unemployment. She does not desire, nor can she afford, a bohemian stature. She has to think about redirecting her professional career goals.

Scribble, scribble, scribble. Back to her self-fashioned repetition of the thematic, national self.

Fuck national content. Easier written than done. Besides, national ideologies can certainly fuck one over.

They are all specialists on board. Skilled practitioners of what Americanness entails. They pledge allegiance to the U.S. and Salvadoran flags. Red, white, and blue, re-coated with blue and white. Continental, completing the American process of immigrant self-reinvention, commercially supplements the missing red in the latter. No one talks about El Salvador’s previous political flirtations with red. Communist red. Her mother, seated next to her, is restless with her fear of gang violence. Such inquietude, at a ground speed of 535 miles per hour, with street shades of red.

The first sight is the name of the nation. In red. Landing at Comalapa International Airport, El Salvador welcomes visitors in red, block letters. The official color is not Che Guevara red. Or a red book for Lenin, as Roque Dalton once wrote.

In the pages of her especially bound journal, red is a color of caution. Red as emblematic of her self-imposed stop signs seeking satisfactory responses to the unspoken question: To what does a migrant return?

Hers is a visitation.

National awkwardness, personal awkwardness, sets in.

Airborne, the passengers are a national family who phenotypically resembles the other.

Who has custody of this family?

She thought she was the only one who was nervous about the arrival. Mother and daughter find themselves removed from the motherland. Upon exiting the plane, they decide they first want to go to the bathroom. Mother and daughter put their entry into the nation on hold.

After a friendly “bienvenidas” from a customs official and a passport stamp, her mother is instructed to press a switch. They must wait to see if the airport light for tourists, for residents of El Salvador who have been visiting elsewhere, and for Salvadorans who fall under the qualifier “foreigner” will yield a green or red light. It gives a green signal, saving them from inspection. They wheel the luggage from behind them and push themselves forward with slight trepidation.

Walking outside the terminal, the airport seems like a bus depot. Crowds. Barriers. Flashes. Lottery vendors who linger despite being told “No, thank you.” Cab drivers who linger despite being told “No, thank you.” The calling of indistinguishable names. It’s as though the Salvadorans living in El Salvador are the paparazzi, and the passengers––local stars, bearers of hope and promise––are being called from all directions. They are celebrities, national celebrities, and sometimes with Hollywood stories.

The section from where they exit services the continuous stream of U.S. arrivals. Thankfully, they were not lost in the crowd and were quickly spotted by her godmother and her nephew.

Her godmother and her godsister are always key geographic influences. It was Boston in the 1980s, where she now lives, and El Salvador in the 21st century, where her mother seeks to retire.

They head towards the city in a gray VW van that runs on diesel and is too large for soccer mom minivan status. It services elementary school children during the school year. The driver is a University of Central America undergrad who tells her that the kids are on vacation.

The Salvadoran afternoon heat is unforgiving. “([E]ste país es un viejo incendio, etc.)” is how Roque Dalton cleverly captures this climate. The VW has no air conditioner. She rolls down the front seat’s window. On the right, a truck covered with long, brown sticks that look like elongated, anorexic yucca, passes them. The U.C.A. student points to it and voluntarily identifies the items. “Sugar cane,” he says. Another truck passes them; this time, it is full of people. “Laborers,” he discloses.

The re-introduction to her country is reminiscent of the opening page of Gabriel García Márquez’s One Hundred Years of Solitude, where Colonel Aureliano Buendía’s childhood in Macondo village needs to be described, identified. “The world was so recent that many things lacked names,” García Márquez writes, “and in order to indicate them it was necessary to point." She does not point, of course, and this city is by no means a village. Yet it is clear that some parts of this not so new world made anew, if only because she has just arrived, need to be known. Her recollection has various deficiencies. She lacks specifics, street names. She has lost certain words. She has no sense of direction.

The country has changed. It demands its due place within her string of memory. You cannot expect El Salvador to be timeless, she scolds herself, while your life and consciousness progress. Eighteen years of national solitude is akin to an assassination of the self, a stubborn self that selfishly denied her the gratification of exploring a Salvadoran nationality in its fullest sense, away from the margins of the U.S. Latino triad. Those identity politics rapidly dissolve. That triad is marginal here; this population will not accept the fate of irrelevancy dictated from the North.

The route to San Salvador is a variation of the U.S.–Mexico borderlands. “Look to the left,” she is told. “Next to that supermarket is a sweatshop.”

She notices billboards in English. One of the advertisements, featuring Bracos, the local sneakers, reminds her of a childhood snapshot. She is fond of that moment, although her brother will disagree. The company motto under the sneakers is in English, pronouncing, “It’s cool.” That’s not what her brother had said in the late 1970s, when their father had shown up with a pair of Bracos. “I want Adidas,” her brother bemoaned. “And these are Salvadoran,” he contemptuously added. These days Bracos hyphenates itself. They are Salvadoran–American. (She continues deliberating. Are Bracos a copy of Adidas? If so, what does that suggest about their paternal relations? Perhaps their cheap father had bought her brother cheap sneakers and purchased the legitimate sneakers for his legitimate family.)

Arrival. The day is long overdue. She is shy about meeting people, about talking. She can’t tell mountains or volcanoes apart. She asks how people can tell the difference. “Because they have been pointed to you since childhood,” is one response.

The lanes are narrow. Sites in motion require her attention. She does not know where to focus her eyes. The road is abundant with kiosks selling fresh coconut water, “what all hermanos lejanos crave.” That pesky phrase reminds her. Can they drive by the monument to the hermano lejano? “Sure,” he says amiably, “it’s on the way home.” Her godmother wants to know why she wants to see it. She has another route in mind, the one where they can appreciate the Antiguo Cuscatlán neighborhood. The spelling of this Cuscatlán differs from the one she has previously seen, Cuzcatlán. The clarification is that “the latter is more indigenous.” As they stylistically wish.

From the quick glimpse she gives the monument, she gathers it is a large, concrete rectangle extending a greeting in rather unimaginative terms. Welcome distanced sibling, or estranged sibling, the homage intimates to ex-patriots. Perhaps her godmother was right, why would one want to look at that? The salutation does not make her feel welcome. She would rather hear the greeting from the customs official. The monument may well be calling her an hermanastra––a stepsibling, a half-sibling, a rival sibling––who will never be incorporated into the nation. If one is estranged from the national family can one regain intimate admittance? Every family has an outcast. Almost a family member she shall be.

El Salvador is almost America. She’s pointed to the newest mall in the city, the MultiPlaza. There’s plenty of local talk about the opening of a new Sears and Starbucks. San Salvador is like a sketch of Florida or California. They pass the American Embassy, a fenced in complex with red-tiled roofs that exudes exclusivity––gated, armed, untouchable. It has the appearance of a country club or university. The idea of the American Embassy as an educational institution is befitting. The world is a pupil––a consumer––of American ideologies.

They reach their momentary home––their borrowed home, her godsister’s home––in Santa Elena. Two English bulldogs greet them, father and son.  The dogs are incestuous and take sexual turns with each other. Canines gone wild.

They are scheduled to stay for eleven days. Their luggage is taken to the bedroom on the second floor with a private bathroom.

They have lunch with the family and head to Metro Centro soon thereafter. A few blocks from the house, a group of teenagers plays soccer on the main boulevard their car needs to access. Traffic comes from both directions. There is no stoplight, and the players could get hit. Maybe that is the added thrill of their game. “It’s like extreme soccer,” someone comments.

En route, a sign of a smiling President Elías Antonio Saca, his wife, and children greets them. Under the beaming first family is the caption: “Un gobierno con sentido humano.” A humane government with an inhumane past remakes itself.

If Macy’s on Manhattan’s Herald Square were an outdoor mall during Christmas season, Metro Centro is how it would look. Except today is not a holiday. It is a weekday. The mall is packed with people watching other people, window shoppers, couples, families, customers. There is a never-ending traffic of humans, like a four-lane highway. “My Dad has a theory,” her companion begins. “He says that the people who come to Metro Centro on weekdays are the ones who live off remittances.” A few hours into her trip, and it is evident that the entire nation lives off remittances. El Salvador’s minimum wage is $120 per month.

They decide to take a break for a few minutes, resting on a bench in front of a furniture store. She thinks she is hallucinating. Since sitting, she notices a salesman carrying the same red seat outside the store three times. She doesn’t know if her mind repeats the scene from the exhaustion––sort of like counting sheep during an insomniac state––or a particular customer’s finicky need for symmetry. “They’re buying a living room set,” her godmother clarifies. “The last piece was the armchair. Now come the coffee tables.”

Her godsister wants her to try vegan pupusas for dinner at the Kalpataru Restaurant, S.A. de C.V. (“Deliciosamente natural.”) She orders a bean and soy cheese pupusa and a zapote frozzen, listed, with a double z, on the pink receipt. She enjoys the Kalpataru’s spin on pupusas. Earlier, she noticed a commercially different turn––an Americanized fast food turn––at the Mister Donut, a traditional food eatery whose name alludes to what in the U.S. would become a coffee, pastry, and burger joint. The Mister Donut in Metro Centro solicits signatures to petition the Salvadoran Assembly for the creation of El Día Nacional de la Pupusa. National recognition of the pupusa is planned for the second weekend of February. La Prensa Gráfica reports that, after a one month and a half campaign, 5,100 signatures are collected, adding a congratulatory remark, “Not bad for a dish that is basically comprised of a corn or rice flour tortilla, stuffed with cheese, refried beans, pork . . . and lately even stuffed with fish and mushrooms.”

It is late in the evening. She has to send quick e-mails to say that she and her mother got in okay. The message to her brother says precisely that: “Hi. Just a quick e-note to let you know that we arrived safely and are now going to bed. Talk to you soon, tu hermana lejana.”

She wakes at 6:20 in the morning. She does not know it yet, but that will be her wake-up call throughout her stay. She contemplates the early sounds of morning––birds, in the back and front on the house, congruously singing.

The first story of the day she hears is of a Salvadoran lady, la niña such-and-such, who makes tortillas every midnight because she wakes up hungry at 5 A.M.

Their breakfast, cooked by the muchacha from Juayúa, consists of French-pressed coffee, freshly squeezed orange juice, small, rolls that are delivered daily and known as French bread even though they’re locally made and should thus be known as local baguettes, eggs, refried beans, and Petacones cheese, capitas con loroco style. After eating, her mother insists that they must do their part in the house, that they must wash the dishes and help the muchacha with cleaning the kitchen. The word “servant” is never uttered. It is implied through the synonyms of muchacha, child, girl. Her godsister senses their unease with domestic help, and lightly comments, “welcome to the tropics.”

La Prensa Gráfica is delivered. The stories are a public record of arrivals and departures, of the unfolding economy. One of the headlines grabs her attention: “El país recibió más turistas en el 2004.” Another story reports that Dell plans to hire five hundred bilingual Salvadorans to assist U.S. customers in sales or technical support through the company’s call center in El Salvador. The same page includes an additional note of economic progress, “Remesas baten récord en 2004.” A full-page, public service announcement illustrates the highway sign found in U.S.–Mexico border zones––the one with a hurried man, woman, and child––alerting drivers about undocumented people running across freeways. The ad reads: “Canal 21 y La Prensa Gráfica te llevan a conocer los obstáculos y peligros que muchos enfrentan en su afán de hacer realidad el sueño americano.”

She has her first Salvadoran bus ride in more than a decade. The bus had a previous American life. Traces of its yellow, public school days are apparent: a stop sign still rests on the driver’s side. The bus has been personalized to the proprietor’s taste. She enters through a turnstile. She is greeted with the sounds of acid and techno, like a mobile disco. A masculine voice emphasizes the phrase “welcome to the jungle” over and over, giving way to Caribbean demands at home or on the dance floor, depending on what one assumes is the meaning behind the lyrical request, “dame más gasolina, más gasolina.” She sits. Others stand. She notices the back of a man wearing a black leather belt with the inscription, El Salvador. The man seating next to her carries a Bible. A couple nearby carries a baby girl. The father contentedly tells his daughter, “One thousand kisses. Not nine hundred ninety-nine! One thousand!” The ride is bouncy, like ground-level turbulence. She’s observant. She doesn’t feel parenthetical. They share un día en común. The window is open. She smells diesel fumes in their purest, unpurified form. It’s like the scent of the Lincoln Tunnel has been bottled, well shaken, and explosively released for her disfavorable inhalation.

Vendors easily walk in and out, selling coconut water, lollipops, socks, friendship cards. The last merchant is instantly crafty with his testimonial for Korean Ginseng. She is curious about how the preppy looking solicitor will build a need for his product. “Good afternoon, ladies and gentlemen,” he begins. “I am going talk to you about your health. Health is something that you take for granted. But we can all take preventative steps to assure that we remain healthy. I am talking to you about Korean Ginseng. Better than multivitamins. Better than other supplements. Korean Ginseng has multiple uses for headaches, migraines, insomnia, back pain, memory loss, tiredness. For only one dollar, this little bottle of Korean Ginseng will give you energy. . . .” Mission accomplished. He sells two packs. Anyone else?

Most things cost a quarter. In Salvadoran talk, the price is a cora or corita. The constant repetition of an item for a corita is a captivating sound. The language bears the traces of an imposed economy. The American way of life is acted out in urban quarters, in mobile spaces, in transient economies. Spoken diminutively, the little quarter becomes less imposing, while highlighting that the customer is getting a good deal. Her mother must have thought so. She purchased four lollipops for a corita, noting, “They remind me of when I was a cipota.”

Her craving from childhood is the Hawaiian banana split from the Pops ice cream shop. They go to Pops one afternoon to relive what she remembers. She and her mother try two flavors before making their selection. A woman with a hair net urges her colleague, in a tactless, audible whisper, not to give too many free samples. Their group buys two banana splits and a milkshake. One of them savors the dessert on the go. Their car stops at a red light. A little girl appears from nowhere. Knocking on the window, she points to an object on the dashboard. She wants the milkshake. The window rolls down. The drink transfers ownership.

God is public art in this city. He is graffiti. A prayer. An evocation on walls or commercial spaces. A bus owner has inscribed on the back of his window, “Dios no te pedimos riquezas. Te pedimos el pan de cada día.”

They go to the national cathedral and pay their respects to Archbishop Romero, who is buried there. The Archbishop’s tomb is surrounded by several small, plaques thanking him for the blessings he has given many people during times of adversity. They touch the grave and say a prayer.

A few yards from the cathedral, they speedily walk through the market at the center of the city. She notices that she can’t look at a kiosk for more than two seconds. A lingering stare gives vendors the impression that she wants to purchase something. She looks at the floor and notices three severed chicken feet on the pavement. They have been stepped on and flattened by pedestrian traffic. She hears a man commanding a child, in English, to “Stop it!” One item holds her attention. It’s a market bag, a white sack that has been industrially sewn together, with each side bearing the brand of local products. She tells the saleslady that she wants the bag with the Café Doreña (100% puro) logo on one side and the Frijosal ad on the other. “What does it matter?” the lady counters. “What matters is what you’ll be carrying inside.” Rhetorical question aside, the woman gives her the Café Doreña/Frijosal reversible sack for thirty-five cents. Her mother stops for pirated compact discs. Each costs one dollar and is tested on a portable stereo before the sale. The dollar bills handed back to them are well worn. They are grayer, almost a charcoal color, thinner, creased.

That afternoon she heads with her mother, her godsister’s daughter, and a friend to the MARTE, El Salvador’s Museum of Art. They see paintings by Carlos Cañas. As they enter one room, they find television cameras, bright lights, a reporter, and fourteen women in jeans, slacks, and mini skirts. The women wear a white banner identifying their department. “Oh, my God,” the friend speaks softly, “these are the Miss El Salvador contestants.” Instead of engaging with the art, which is what they paid for, they watch the Misses, who can’t be bothered with spectators. Interest about the museum’s installations differs within the group. Some of the Misses stand. Others sit, writing notes on loose-leaf paper and small memo pads. The rest look bored. The Misses walk in two groups. The heels clinking from room to room make a marching echo––a walking noise about the different ways to illustrate the nation, to wear and interpret El Salvador.

It has been years since she remembers her brother’s games in northern New Jersey. He was fond of teasing one of their cousins and declaring her the beauty of Zacatecoluca, the capital of the La Paz department. Putting on a spectacular, entertainment voice, he would announce, “I proclaim you Miss Zacatecoluca!” Their cousin would cry and tell their mother to please put a stop to the decree. The possibility that Zacatecoluca was a phenotypic mirror of the rest of the nation went beyond the mestizo adolescents’ amusement. Even the most indigenous looking people conceptualize themselves in un-Indian, mestizo terms. The homemade contest had more to do with the richness of the sound and the images that geographical space activated. Zacatecoluca was a substitute for Indian, an identity italicized and further emphasized as a differentiation from their U.S. industrialized world.

Indian––an affiliated usage akin to Mary Rowlandson’s disdainful accentuation in her autobiographical account about being taken captive by Narragansett Indians. Indian is anyone but the upwardly mobile mestizo. Watching telenovelas that evening, a character on the Mexican production, Mujer de Madera, is described as an “Atlacatl,” an Indian. Atlacatl––someone who has not evolved much since Atlacatl, the sixteenth century figure who resisted Spanish conquest in Central America. Atlacatl Indianness––that which the majority of Salvadorans cannot escape.

She has been frequenting shopping malls much more than she is used to. With its capitalist repetition, San Salvador is more like Alberto Fuguet’s and Edmundo Paz Soldán’s notion of McOndo, visions of progress that are “urban, hyper-real, disinclined toward magical realism, in tune with American popular culture, and with the new technologies that appear [sic] in the landscape of the continent.” Malls multiply from neighborhood to neighborhood with the same shops.

American programs bombard Salvadoran homes. She watches Desperate Housewives and teenage telenovelas like The O.C.. She’s entertained by That ‘70s Show and the E! channel. She surfs through the 30–Minute Meals host from the Food Network and her dreadful linguistic shortcuts like E.V.O.O. for extra virgin olive oil. She prefers tuning into Radio Femenina’s program “1900 Ayer,” 1900 Yesteryear. The station plays far more enjoyable and diverse songs than are usually heard on U.S. radios.

She goes to the Centro Romero at the University of Central America; a civil war gallery paying tribute to prominent figures murdered by the military. The evidence is behind window cases displaying personal items that belonged to Archbishop Romero and the Jesuits killed on the U.C.A. campus. Photo albums capture how the bodies were found. On view are bloodied books and bloodied shirts. Pictures and letters from the U.S. nuns who were raped and murdered are shown. A glass case is devoted to the El Mozote massacre, containing the skulls of an adult and child beside rusted artillery shells. She thinks that the remains from El Mozote should be properly buried. Directly above the Romero Center is the yard where the Jesuits were executed. It is a now rose garden. She notices two white Americans on her way out, receiving a tour in English. She e-mails her impressions to a Salvadoran friend in the States, who responds, “Estoy de acuerdo sobre las calaveras pero la derecha en El Salvador esta en total denial y te aseguro que si no muestran esas calaveras, ellos dirian que son mentirillas y cuentos de la izquierda: las masacres de campesinos.” National memory varies.

“At some point,” her boyfriend had urged when learning that she was writing a series of autobiographical essays about the self and nation, “you have to return to El Salvador with your adult perspective.”

Alas, she is back as an adult, with the need to update her history. The least of her worries is whether she is Salvadoran enough. Stories of relocation such as hers are not unusual in this country of migratory subsistence. Two days ago, her next door neighbor from San Miguel had paid her mother and godmother a visit. La niña Tula––short for Gertrudis––says that all but one of her kids remains in the country. The rest are in New Jersey, Texas, Vancouver, and Montreal. “Ooooohhhh,” la niña Tula says, “If someone had told me a while back that my kids were going to leave El Salvador, I never would have believed them.” She adds that not many have stayed from their old neighborhood.

Their American futures have made ghosts out of their towns and neighborhoods. But one can always catch up. Her mother has been thinking about this too. Traveling through the city one afternoon, she noted, “We leave out of necessity. But we always return to our land.”

Their return date nears. They head to the Mercado Nacional de Artesania to buy souvenirs. She is not interested in buying folkloric goods for herself. Family members and friends have stocked her with popular Salvadoran staples: painted towels with toucans; colorfully engraved wooden chests; and a cross from La Palma, bearing the designs influenced by the nation’s most exported artist, Fernando Llort. Her shopping is limited to one ring and two bracelets made from coconut shells.

As her mother decides on her purchases, she overhears a group of college-age students mocking the kinds of things estranged siblings buy to take to the United States. Their eyes stare at a hammock that Salvadorans living in El Salvador find in bad taste. “That’s the type of hammock that only an hermano lejano will buy,” says one. She wonders what her recently acquired goods say about her. Does one become tacky abroad, or does local tackiness force one to buy things that are ridiculously made for decoration overseas?

They buy riguas and atol de elote in Antiguo Cuscatlán. “This is our tea hour,” she teases as they all sit in the living room chatting and drinking their atol. They will leave El Salvador the next day. The rest of the time is a rush to capture as much of the flavors from the city. Everyone pitches in ideas for delicacies that must be sampled. One suggestion is cevada and horchata from Mister Donut. Chilate and nuegados are added, as are green mangoes. She eats as much as she can, and also drinks what she avoids in the States––soda––only because the Coca-Cola in El Salvador does not list high fructose corn syrup as an ingredient.

They head for Comalapa before sunrise, joining the outdoor chaos of the airport. Her godsister is in the shuttle with them. She is going to Guatemala City on a business trip.

They go through a one-hour process of checking in, and reward themselves with a desayuno tipico at the Pollo Campero. People rush in and out, packing their last taste of the nation. Noticing that a lady orders a bucket of 40–pieces and that the line is growing, her mother decides that she wants her own country-style chicken to go. She buys nine pieces; the gratification is postponed. The taste is to be replicated in New Jersey.

Boarding the aircraft, she overhears a flight attendant instructing passengers that if they purchased Pollo Campero, they need to place the packages under the seat, not in the overhead bins. Their assigned space is at the end of the airplane. Hers is the window seat. She contemplates the Salvadoran landscape without ambivalence. Tearing up, her mother says, “me da no sé qué El Salvador.”

The pilot announces that the flight attendants need to prepare for departure. She hands her mother a piece of green Clorets gum. Another hour, another day, another flight. Their repetition of delivery and loss.


  (c)Milian 2005


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